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English version | De chef e de louco...
In the kitchen world, madness is queen. Even if that was not the case, being a chef is, in itself, one of those jobs that has a lot of potential when it comes to the acquisition of many crazes and quirks, small embarrassments and an irascible character. Welcome to the crazy world of improbable recipes, the most bizarre restaurants and chefs with knives in hand, an image that we will not want to encounter.
Legend has it that Velho Brás, a resident of Bairro Alto, only had a few eggs, onions, potatoes and cod at home. To this he added his creativity and the very famous Bacalhau à Brás was born. Let's go ahead and break down this theory. It is very beautiful to have such a story to tell the tourist who sits at the table of the fado house and hesitates between an octopus lagareiro style or a deep fried pataniscas of codfish. Except that sometimes these tourists do know how to cook, since "abroad" the habit of men getting home and having dinner ready has been over for a century now. That said, we don’t think anyone actually believes this story. In fact, in order to make “his” cod, Ti Brás would’ve to have oil to sauté the finely cut onion, one or two cloves of garlic (indispensable, according to our poet Saul Ricardo), oil to fry the potatoes (at the time, there were no packed potatoes of this kind), pepper, bay leaf, white wine to sweat the onions, milk to bind with the eggs and parsley to chop on top and Cobrançosa or Galegas types of olives. All things considered, these are the basic ingredients for a good hundred examples of the Portuguese cuisine. But Brás was up for “that”.
Which is nothing more than a dish to please the Spanish tourist, those that get excited with cod and, if it is wrapped in eggs (huevos revueltos com todo y todo com huevos), even better. It is such a poor dish that even Franciscans dedicated themselves to making liqueurs with wild aromatics, observing from their convents, always located in pl
Carrer de Sepúlveda, 38, 40, L'Eixample, 08015 Barcelona, Spain
+34 932 20 19 74
www.enigmaconcept.es
Mon 10/21/2024, 07:00p-11:05p
On my final day in Barcelona, I finally made my way over to Enigma, no doubt one of the poster children of avant garde Spanish cookery. And why wouldn't it be? The place is the invention of none other than Albert Adrià, of elBulli fame, and represents the closest that we'll likely ever get to a contemporary interpretation of that legendary restaurant in Roses. This was definitely a high priority visit for me.
About the Chef: Albert Adrià Acosta was born in October 1969 in L'Hospitalet de Llobregat, Barcelona, the son of parents Ginés and Josefa. Inspired by his older brother Ferran Adrià, he decided to pursue a career in food in 1985, and began apprenticing at El Bulli, where Ferran was already working. After two years, he committed himself to heading up the pastry department at the restaurant, and during winter closures, he furthered his training at the likes of Pastisseria Turull in Terrassa, Pastisseria Escribà in Barcelona, and Pastelería Totel in Elda, under Francisco Torreblanca. He even stagedat Guy Savoyfor six weeks, following completion of his military service in 1988. In 1990, El Bulli regained two Michelin stars, which it lost in 1985 following the departure of Jean-Paul Vinay, who initially secured the honor in '83. Three stars arrived in 1997, but it was also during this time when Adrià left the restaurant to write his first book: Los Postres de elBulli, published in October 1998.
Following, he rejoined El Bulli in late '98, this time in the creativity workshop (taller), teaming up with Oriol Castroand eventually taking over the operation altogether. In 2002, El Bulli topped the World's 50 Best Restaurants list for the first time, a feat repeated consecutively from 2006 to 2009. Throughout these years, Adrià also expanded his knowledge by working stints at Bras, The Fat Duck, Muga
Ferran Adrià life and biography
Ferran Adrià began his famed culinary career washing dishes at the restaurant of Hotel Playafels in Castelldefels, Spain—in fact his father, Ginès, helped get him the job after Adrià dropped out of school. Here, Adrià familiarized himself with basic cooking methods and worked to build his gastronomic repertoire. Adrià then went on to work at various restaurants before becoming assistant chef at Finisterre, a popular Barcelona restaurant. Following that, he served in the Spanish military at the Naval Base of Cartagena, where he was suitably stationed in the kitchen. In 1984, at the age of 22, Adrià joined the kitchen staff of El Bulli, and only 18 months later, he became head chef.
El Bulli, located on the coast of Catalonia on the outskirts of Barcelona, was known as a traditional French restaurant. When Adrià joined the staff, the restaurant’s manager, Juli Soler, urged Adrià to travel to acquire fresh culinary ideas. Adrià soon began touring some of France’s top kitchens, learning various techniques from many distinguished culinary masters. During the second half of the 1980s, Adrià began performing culinary experiments, which were based on using fresh raw materials and adapting classic Mediterranean preparations to give El Bulli’s cuisine new twists with creative flair.
Among the many experiments Adrià conducted, one of the most impressive and well received was his use of foams. This technique consists of aerating ingredients with a siphon by introducing minute bubbles that alter the texture of food. Adrià began applying this culinary method to both sweet and savory